As Fall New York Fashion Week approaches, let’s reminisce on shows that have had a lasting impact on the evolution of fashion.
The Superpower of the Supermodels—Versace, Fall 1991
I would be remiss if I didn’t start here. Gianni Versace has long been credited with revolutionizing fashion, producing one of the first modern runway shows. I’d argue that if the internet were as prevalent then as it is today, Versace would’ve quite literally broken it.
Four of the most iconic models hit the runway at the same time. Supermodels Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington buoyantly floated down the runway, linked arm in arm, mouthing the 90’s hit Freedom, by George Michael. This moment changed the way the fashion industry evaluated putting on shows. It is an iconic moment that holds weight over 20 years later.
Grazia Daily UK, 2017.
Alexander McQueen walked so AI could run—McQueen, Spring 1999
As the relationship between technology and fashion evolves, we must pay homage to those who were quite literally decades ahead of their time.
During McQueen’s Spring 99 show, we saw the early adoption of incorporating technology into fashion. His collection, lovingly dubbed No 13, focused on arts and crafts, and the balance between man and machine.
Picture this: Iconic model Shalom Harlow, wearing a voluminous, strapless white dress, stood on a revolving platform. On either side? Two robots, that spray painted that white dress yellow and black. For the first time, we saw fashion created in real-time. I consider it a fashion move that stunned the masses.
Robert Fairer (Courtesy of NGV).
The Great Wall of Fendi—Fendi, Fall 2008
During his Fendi reign, Karl Lagerfeld made the impossible possible and then made it more magical than could’ve been imagined. 500 guests from all over the world jet-set to Beijing, China to experience a likely once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to watch as 88 models walked the 4,500-mile-long Great Wall of China, AKA, the world’s longest runway.
The cherry on top? The finale included the iconic Fendi double logo illuminated against neighboring mountains. Talk about impact!
And if that wasn’t enough, the chances of another show Great Wall show happening are slim to none. The fashion house spent over a year coordinating efforts with various government entities to ensure no laws were infringed upon. Rumor has it that planning was so intricate (see: stressful) that it’s not likely to happen again.
WWD, courtesy of Fendi, 2008.
Does she sell Chanel by the Seashore? —Chanel, Spring 2012
Okay, so they weren’t by the seashore—but they were at The Grand Palais. With the stunning underwater world-inspired décor, it was arguably a bit easy to get the two confused.
The all-white nautical structures immersed the audience in a dreamy, but breathable experience. Life-sized shells, coral, and sea life were the center of the show. The audience sat strategically in rows that, from an aerial view, resembled ocean waves washing ashore.
And if the show couldn’t feel any more other-worldly, Florence and The Machine emerged from a life-sized shell to perform “What the Water Gave Me.” The nod towards Sandro Botticelli, creator of “The Birth of Venus,” was not just noted in the finale, but throughout the show with both the use of new, uniquely delicate materials and the expert use of Mother of Pearl.
Fashionista, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images 2012.
A Fashion Flash-Mob—Moncler, Fall 2011
As much as I disliked the whole random break-out-into-dance fad, I must say I thoroughly enjoyed seeing models in Moncler perform a well-coordinated presentation. Even more, they utilized Grand Central Station. A grand performance needs a grand location. Show-goers watched from the main concourse and from the balconies above.
Robert Caplin for The New York Times 2011.
The name’s Lauren. Ralph, Lauren. –Ralph Lauren, Fall 2017
With 50 years of fashion under his belt, Lauren decided to treat show-goers with his love of fashion and cars.
Although other American designers opted to attend the Paris shows, Lauren decided to remain stateside. 250 guests were chauffeured to Lauren’s garage in Bedford Mills, New York, approximately 40 miles from the city center. There, guests had exclusive access to view some of Lauren’s most prized cars, including a 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC. Lost in translation? Simply put, guests had the privilege of viewing one of the world’s most expensive automobiles while enjoying hors d'oeuvre—and the show hadn’t even started yet!
Models strutted down the runway to “Thunderball,” the soundtrack of the 1965 James Bond film. The garments paid homage to the cars with sleek lines, dramatic colors, and the consistent undercurrent of American luxury that Lauren has embodied since the creation of his line.
Elle, Launch Metrics Spotlight, 2017.
Black on Black—Rick Owens, Spring 2014
Rick Owens isn’t new to pushing the limits, and his Spring 2014 show was no different. Taking the runway by storm, Owens hired a drill team and Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCU) cheerleaders to perform, donning his latest collection from head to toe.
The impact? It depends on who you ask. While many audience members and industry leaders gasped in awe at the show, others raised an eyebrow at what they perceived as a spectacle. Was Vicious, the name of his collection, the proper collection in which to highlight a Black HBCU dance team? Regardless of which side of the coin you landed on, the show created a buzz around the much-needed conversation about race relations in the fashion industry.
Vogue Runway, Rick Owens, 2014.
Hot, Hot, Haute—Thierry Mugler Couture, Fall 1995
Marilyn Monroe, is that you? Mugler’s models would’ve made you look twice. From dress and details to hair and makeup, there was an uncanny resemblance to the late bombshell.
I mean, it makes perfect sense. The show oozed luxury, sexy luxury. Some models donned sheer tops; others none at all. Each model was carefully dressed in each piece, down to their gem-crusted eyebrows. The diversity of the models proved a hit, as women of different ethnicities, sizes, and heights came together to put on quite the show. Barely dressed dancers shimmied atop pillars to the rhythm of James Brown’s Sex Machine. The show quite literally morphed into a party, the models and performers sashaying with and around one another.
The New York Times, 2019 (republished).
Chanel goes to the Supermarket—Chanel, Fall 2014
Remember when I said Karl Lagerfeld could make the impossible, possible, and then some? Forget a catwalk! He transformed the Grand Palais into a Chanel-branded supermarket. Think ‘CoCo Puffs,’ ketchup, and even a chainsaw, all branded with the classic double C logo. Fashion editors, socialites, and stars alike rummaged the shelves, taking these one-of-a-kind items home. Some argue that the focus of the collection was lost in the frenzy. Others saw the marketing genius of Lagerfeld, who knew these items would become invaluable—they have not and will never be available for sale. It triggers the want, the need, to be on the inside. Mission accomplished.
The New York Times, 2019 (republished).
Marni takes on Brooklyn—Marni, Spring 2023
The Milan-based brand presented its SS23 show in New York for the first time ever. Marni took to Brooklyn, creating a stunning juxtaposition between the iconic Manhattan Bridge above the gritty cobblestone streets, the vibrant colors of the Spring season, and the ethereal sounds of the Brooklyn String Orchestra.
You’re probably thinking, okay, this is cool… But what makes it iconic? They went against the grain. As more designers opt to show in Paris, Milan, and London, Marni decided to take a different approach and reaffirmed that New York is still a premiere destination for designers, aspiring and seasoned alike.
Vogue Runway, Marni, 2023.